Marrakesh!

I rode the 3 hours from El Jadida to Marrakesh yesterday. It was far more interesting keeping off the motorway as you go through the real Morocco. I had my first experience of the Desert! I've never been to a desert before just flown over a couple. But this is what it looks like:-

It is largely rocks and gravel and not the huge sand dunes you see it the movies!
Going through the small towns and villages out in the sticks you realise how little people have. Almost Biblical scenes of shepherds tending around a dozen sheep. They have to tend them because there are no fences so they graze wherever there is a blade of grass or scrub. Then you arrive in Marrakesh and the strip that my hotel is on is like something out of Las Vegas with all the hotels, clubs, and casinos. There are designer shops everywhere selling Armani, Gucci, etc... People are driving Jags and Mercedes. The difference between the 2 Moroccos, within 20 miles of each other, is shocking. I'm beginning to sound like Che Guevara in his book 'Motorcycle Diaries'. I came across similar disparity in India. But there its was religion (and cricket) that bound society together and prevented much civil unrest. The idea that you will reap your reward through incarnation is powerful and perhaps Islam does the same here. I should get off my soap box quick as I'm staying in a 5 star hotel! 

I'm going off to see the sights of Marrakesh tonight so more later. But until then I have posted a Go Pro video, on You tube, showing what its like riding through Morocco. Here's the link:
Go Pro video riding through Morocco

Last Visit to the Medina

The Rough Guide had mentioned that, in the middle of the old Portuguese Medina was an old 'cistern' that was worth a visit. If you are like me a cistern is the ceramic bit above a toilet that contains the water and when you pull the handle it flushes. This is a much grander affair. It is essentially a huge underground vault designed to fill up with water when it rains. An old man gave me the two bob tour in French. It was built 500 years ago and when full it holds a quarter of a million litres. If the town was under siege, and the inhabitants could not get out, it would keep them in water for many weeks.

 Above the cistern was the barracks and the jail. Prisoners were kept in cells no more than 3 feet high and if you went in you did not come out alive! They were also put to work, in the granary (now an art gallery), turning 3 metre wide  grinding wheels to make flour and scratched their names on the walls.

Check out my artsy picture shot through the hole in the middle of an old grinding wheel.

The cistern has been made famous as Orson Welles used it for a scene when he made the film version of Othello. I seem to be following Orson around as he had also stayed in the hotel in Algeciras we used 2 weeks ago.

I needed the toilet after visiting the cistern (must be all that water) and nervously entered the public loo nearby. One look at it and it's instant constipation!

I particularly liked the style of this guys bike. I think the flaming skulls, on a 50cc moped, really sets it off.

I walked up the steps to the 3 metre thick ramparts of the Medina and came across this chimney where the most delightful aroma of baking bread was wafting up. I wish this was a scratch and sniff blog!

People have asked why I am travelling alone. Ted Simon, in his great motorcycle travel book, Jupiter's Travels, summarises it well. If you go alone you are more vulnerable and therefore need the assistance of the local people. Thus it is a much more submersive experience and you will get more out of your travels. Ninety-nine percent of your encounters with the locals will be a positive experience. Most people are genuinely kind and generous here.

Apart from telephone calls home to my wife I have spoken nothing but French for the last 2 weeks as very few locals here speak English. So one benefit of the trip will be improved French!

I am writing this from the Safari Pub in El Jadida as the people are friendly, the beer is cold, and they are showing the England Holland football match this evening. My mate Kassim the waiter has just delivered this to my table as he's off home for a couple of hours. It's a pity I'm on the bike or else it would be party time. I think I'll come back down this evening in a taxi!

Tomorrow I'm riding the 3 hour route to Marrakesh where I will spend a few days living it large before I head into the mountains and Ouarzazate. Riding the trails through the mountains is the main reason for this trip and I'm looking forward to it. 

Surf's up!

Today I went on an excursion to Oualudia what the guide book had described as a quaint fishing port. I'm not sure the guy who wrote the book had ever been there because it turned out to be a small but fashionable resort with swanky villas and good restaurants. 

The road down passed through a huge industrial zone with a power station, mineral refinery, and oil and gas storage. The heavy traffic had wrecked the road but my off road bike did not complain! With the industry passed the traffic became light and the Tarmac better and after about an hour I arrived at Oualidia. The town has a beautiful natural lagoon where surfers and kite surfers enjoy the more sheltered conditions. Outside of the lagoon the Atlantic Ocean pounds the coast with 20 foot waves.

The King of Morocco had a place here but it was abandoned in the 1960s. Not sure why as it is in a wonderful location. Well he does have 4 other gaffes around Morocco so I'm not feeling sorry for him. Here's a picture with surfers in the foreground.

I was descended on by touts trying to sell me anything from oysters to a boat trip around the bay! I'm pretty good at dealing with this situation as I've lived for 3 years in India and a polite but firm'no' usually works.

I had lunch in a very attractive and quiet restaurant eating a delicious cod in a parsley sauce with fresh veg. 

Coming back into El Jadida I came across the usual suicidal road crossers! People amble across the road while the traffic weaves around them. Me I'm like Ussain Bolt sprinting across for my life (well I'm a fatter, slower, and whiter than Ussain so not really like him at all!)

Yesterday, as it was Sunday, loads of people were out on the streets and beach. I got my picture taken with Colin the Camel:

And found my sort of restaurant:

Lastly here's a picture of me sitting in the sun toasting all friends and family back in England! A special shout goes out to all at the Plough at Stalisfield Green. 

More tomorrow!

A Tale of Two Cities

El Jadida is 2 very different towns joined together. The Old is the fortified Medina, built by the Portuguese and later abandoned, and the modern resort. The old part is the World heritage site and the new a Moroccan version of Margate!

The old is charming if a little grubby (but I think this adds to the charm) with it's narrow streets and ramparts. I had a coffee in the Café do Mar looking out over a small square below. The café has a collection of old valve radios, that took me back to my early childhood when we had a similar device in our 'front room'. I can remember looking at the dial and seeing place names like Hilversum, Strasbourg, and Luxembourg which seemed so exotic to a small child. 

I took a walk along the harbour breakwater where the warm sunshine had encouraged local boys to go swimming in the harbour. I noticed a man floating in a truck inner tube (let's call him Bob) wearing a high vis vest! He was actually fishing with a hand-line, and when I looked further I could see a number of them spread out across the outer reaches of the harbour.

 On the breakwater they had those concrete blocks specially designed to be stable and absorb the force of the winter storms. Did you ever play that game 'Jacks' as a child where you bounce a small rubber ball and have to snatch up the jacks and catch the ball before it bounces again? These concrete structures look like a set of jacks that belong to a giant. Hasn't todays blog been a trip down memory lane?!!

 The new part of the town is brash with it's neon and fast food. There are still very few foreigners here but the advent of the Easter break, back in Europe, has sent a few more (mostly Germans) this way.

One disturbing phenomena that I have noticed, first in Rabat and then here, is the number of middle aged women who are sleeping rough. You wonder what has caused them to be homeless. Perhaps they were unfaithful to their husbands or perhaps they did not iron his shirts just right. Whatever the cause they certainly do not deserve this precarious and miserable existence. Darling, make sure my dinner's on the table when I return (only joking)!

Riding the bike today unfettered by luggage and myself unfettered of thick protective riding wear, was refreshing. The bike felt more spritely as I twisted through the traffic on the way to the sea front. I got admiring glances from locals who must have thought this a powerful beast, compared to all the mopeds and scooters, whereas in the UK it would not have got a second glance. 

Yesterday, on the way down to El Jadida, I passed an old man in white robes and a white turban tending his crops in the field. He waved enthusiastically as I went past so I gave him the peace sign. This sparked him off into an energetic jigging dance. It is moments like that that make the trip worthwhile.

Rabat to El Jadida - perfect

I have officially decided to curtail my trip and not head through Mauritania to Senegal. This is because my 11 year old bike has started to burn oil. At present it is manageable as it has consumed just less than 1 litre in 1200 miles. However if I was to bust a piston ring in Mauritania I would be coming home by camel. And I bet it's a bugger to get it a pet passport and get it on the ferry! And what would I do with it at home? Maybe I could put it in Margaret's field with her sheep if she did not mind.
Now I'm riding in the warm Spring sunshine and it is sublime! The 150 miles between Rabat and El Jadida were easy. I am now only about 130 miles from Marrakesh and about the same from Essouaria, my next destination. But for the next 4 days I will be here staying in an apartment in an attempt to keep the expenditure down! The apartment is comfortable and modern but, compared with my room in the Medina in Rabat, very bland. It is brand new, in fact I think I'm the only inhabitant in the whole block!
Would someone turn down the volume on those sheets:

Morocco continues to surprise as soon after I arrive the refuse collector turned up:

 

And sheep were grazing on the pile of rubbish just outside:

I am in the Safari Pub near the sea front, taking advantage of the wifi, and there appears to be a demonstration going on outside. The waiter tells me that it is about money. Nothing new there then! There is lots of shouting and plenty of Police, something Morocco is not short of! The town has 2 parts; a modern town with a rather tacky sea front and, a Portuguese old town which is a World Heritage site and I intend to visit tomorrow.

On the bike I have now perfected my mounting technique (oo err Missus!) because, with the pack on the back seat, I was having trouble getting my leg over (Matron!). But now I leave the bike on it's side-stand and stand on the left footrest and sling my right leg over - no problem even with my short legs!
I think I've found the reason for the nature of the driving over here. Here is the driving school!!

I shall report on the old town tomorrow.

Spring has sprung

At last the storm clouds have retreated and the warm sun has come out. I'm sitting on my terrace tapping out the blog.
I went out last night to eat in the new part of the city. I found a bar opposite the station that was really rough. It had strip lighting and the walls dripped with brown cigarette tar. It made a Northern working man's club look like the cocktail bar at Raffles. I actually quite liked it's simplicity although the toilets were like something out of 'Trainspotting'. I ate at an authentic Moroccan restaurant consuming my third tagine in 4 days.
The traffic in the city centre is incredible. If any of you have taken your young children to LEGOLAND, and let them drive in those small electric cars, that is how the locals drive here. There is some semblance of general direction but very few other rules. The zebra crossings and 'green man' lights do not seem to mean anything apart from a determination for the time and place of your imminent demise should you step out trustingly.
After a good night's sleep I decided to hit the tourist hotspots again. This time it was the Hassan Mosque and the Mausoleum of King Mohammed V. The mosque was the second largest in the world but is now lines of shortened pillars (365 of them). It was built in 1195 but abandoned 5 years later as it was too big for the population of Rabat at the time, and turned out to be a white elephant (or perhaps white camel).
Men on horseback ceremonially guarded the compound.

(Note to self: get that beard trimmed as you are looking more and more like Santa).
The Mausoleum, a very grand affair, contains the body of King Mo who died in 1961 and a few of his relatives. Inside an Immam still sings out passages from the Koran even though it is 55 years after the King's death.

On the way back I passed the huge cemetery that overlooks the Atlantic Ocean. There must be some significance in the Muslim world about being buried close to the sea. Maybe they like a 'tomb with a view' ; it certainly is the 'dead centre' of Rabat. (The oldies are the best!).

My new hygiene regime is attracting the touts so here are my top tips for keeping them at bay:

1. Don't wash yourself, or your clothes, for several days.

2. Wear a Fez.

3. Get a sun tan.

4. Apply Brylcream for that high gloss hair look (including the women).

5. If you want to look like a backpacker, wear a backpack!

6. If all that fails say:
Je suis un lepreux dans premier etage. S'eloigner, garder ses distances.
(I'm an early stage leper. Keep your distance.)

More top travellers tips in later editions.

I move on tomorrow the 150 miles to Al Jadida where I'm staying in an apartment. Looking forward to getting on the bike again but I will miss Rabat, the Medina, and the Riad Alzahra.

Chilling in Chellah

A £1.40 taxi ride took me 3 miles to Chellah, site of spectacular Roman and later Arab ruins. I paid the 80p entry cost and was immediately astonished by the scale of the site. The Roman town ruins date back to the first century AD (why do they use AD in a Muslim country? Should it not be AM? After Mohammed?) and the Arabs constructed on the top of these. A French archaeologist found and excavated much of the town in the 1920's.

The site is not just famous for the ruins but for this incredible colony of nesting Storks. These elegant and large birds build huge nests on the higher walls and even on the top of the minaret of the ruined mosque. There must be over 100 Storks and perhaps 50 cats! These seem well fed and are looked after by the curators of the museum. It's funny that I've seen 100's of cats on the streets but not a single dog. Maybe I'll see one on the menu tonight!

I threw my Dinar into the wishing well and already it's grown by 3 inches!

I took this photo of a twisted tree as I thought it looked like a sleeping dragon, or is that all the wacky baccy I've been smoking!

I walked back past the King of Morocco's gaffe but they would not let me in, so continued into the modern city centre for a Cesar salad and a cappuccino. I found my way back to the Medina, where I'm staying, and took this picture of the passage I had to ride my bike up to get to the Riad!

I got a text from John (my Brother who I abandoned in Spain!) the day before yesterday saying that he had broken down on his nearly new Triumph and was in trouble. But in typical John style he landed on his feat and ended up staying at the house of the owner of the Triumph dealer in Cadiz who let him take out the latest models while he had his bike fixed!

Having walked through the whole city today I think l I know my way around quite well so will head out shortly for some dinner.

Rock the Kasbah

Actually the Kasbah is a sleepy part of the old town with it's art galleries and small shops. What surrounds it are the walls of the old Portuguese fort as it sits in a prominent location overlooking the sea.
Still the weather is very changeable with warm sunny periods punctuated by violent thunderstorms. Last night I was kept awake by the frequent crashes of thunder and my window pounded by hail the size of acorns.
Yesterday the woman who runs the place led me to the laundry (a tiny shop in the Medina) and to the Maroc Telephone shop so I could buy a local sim (cheaper for phoning back to the UK) for my ancient Nokia phone. Today, a real treat, I got my clean clothes back nicely packaged and ironed. After a week on the road, with no access to laundry facilities, I must have smelled a little ripe. Four tee shirts and seven days on the road (you do the maths!) I wondered why I was not getting approached by touts and beggars were offering me the contents of their bowls!
The Riad that I'm staying in is a fantastic piece of design. The building is constructed around a central atrium which, in Summer, is open to the elements and in winter it wears a clear plastic hat. This means that the noise and chaos outside in the Medina is kept out as all the rooms face onto the atrium and this is a haven of peace.

Outside the Riad looks nothing:

But inside it is striking:

After exploring the Kasbah I walked down to the quay where many young couples walked hand in hand. I think this is a favourite spot for honeymooners though I'm not sure I would describe it as romantic.
There are police and soldiers everywhere. This place is on high alert. I guess that after terror attacks in Egypt, Turkey, and Tunisia they are doing the best not to be next. If the tourists were frightened away it would be tragic for this nation.
On the quay there is an old Arab Dhow moared which is a floating bar, club, and restaurant. I went along last night and had a beer listening to 1970's funk music (actually quite cool!).

I really thought that I would loose weight this trip but check out the meals in the Riad. Here's breakfast:-

And here's the lamb tagine I had the other night:

At this rate the only way I'll come back thinner is by contracting dysentery.
More later including my trip to the Roman ruins at Chellah! You lucky readers.

Strange Day

It was a strange but good day. John and I said our farewells at 6.30 this morning as I headed off to catch the 8am ferry from Algeciras to Tangers. John will now head home along the Med for about the next week while I explore Morocco.
I arrived at the Port in the dark to find mostly retired Germans in their huge Campervans going off to chase the early spring sunshine. The ferry was a shabby affair with 1970's décor and a strange odour. Even though the conditions were not great you could clearly see Gibraltar and Africa simultaneously. I was feeling a little apprehensive as we slipped away from Europe and approached Africa, but this was alleviated as a pair of Bottle-nosed Dolphins came close to check us out. Here's a selfie of me with Gibraltar in the background.

Moroccan Customs were quite difficult as a few of us did not realise that we had to get our passports stamped on the boat. So the police sent me back on board but, as the small crowd of offending travellers had inconvenience the Police, they made is wait on the naughty step for an hour! The rest of the customs formalities were as I had been warned; taking a form from this office to next to get it stamped etc. as I was temporarily importing the bike. However no money changed hands in order to assist the process so I felt quite proud, although I was made to wait.
The 3 hour ride down to Rabat, the Moroccan capital, was quite easy as the motorway was very similar to the Spanish ones I had pounded down for 3 days. However the arrival in Rabat, and the search for my hotel, was far from straight forward. I did not realise that the Riad (traditional Moroccan Hotel) I had booked was in the middle of the Medina. This meant riding the bike through a labyrinth of back alleys, negotiating the stall keepers and shoppers. It was a bit like a scene from a Bond or Bourne movie! But could I find the hotel? Could I hell! At one point I had 5 people helping me. People are so kind when you get to these sort of places. Eventually it was found and turned out to be an oasis of peace in this bustling and noisy area. I have my own roof terrace and here is the view across the rooftops of the Medina:-

My room is basic but comfortable and the owner cannot do enough to help including letting me park my bike in the lobby!!:

   Off out to eat shortly so more tomorrow as I explore Rabat.