Sitting on the Dock of the Bay.......

.....wasting time.

I'm at Santander waiting for the ferry which leaves tomorrow at 3pm arriving in Portsmouth at around 2.30pm on Tuesday. This means I should be home around 5pm. I'm in getting home mode now! Spain has been great as, compared with Morocco, is very 'user friendly' even though I speak none of the language. The bike is still going well but has developed a slight coolant leak when I stop the engine if it is very hot. I checked the level and it has hardly dropped so no great drama. There is also a very slight oil leak as well. The bike is tired and needs a rest and a service after 4000 miles! (Bit like myself)! But with only about a mile to the ferry this end, and 112 miles in England, I should be fine. 

Well it's not all bad as I'm sitting in the Four Friends Pub and the barmaid (who speaks good English) has promised to show the Man U v Leicester game.

Before that it's the small matter of The rugby match between Exeter and Wasps. Which I will be following on my phone. Come on you Wasps!

Where Eagles Dare

Today I covered the 125 miles from Palencia to Santander in around 2 hours. The route took me through the Picos Mountains which rise to about 1500 metres and we're still snow capped! In fact there was more snow on them than on the way south 6 weeks ago. 

I went over a pass at over 1000 metres but, compared to the Atlas Mountains that I had traversed 4 weeks ago these are mere pimples! The pass between Marrakesh and Oarzazate was over 3000 metres! Although cold and damp my spirits were lifted by seeing dozens of eagles soaring above. 

All over Spain you see these huge signs:

The black bull is the symbol of the Osborne Bodega who make brandy and sherry! My Father did some research into the history as they share our family name, to find out that the Osbornes did indeed move out from England 400 years ago to ensure the supply of sherry to the UK. Maybe they are relatives and I will inherit the business! 

Like Palencia last night, Santander seems a very ordinary place. I nave 2 nights to kill here before the boat back to England. However I've bought some Omo and am looking forward to washing my pants ( as is everyone around me!)

Caceres - mid Spain

It's easy miles on the Spanish motorways and once I had passed Seville they are toll free. The mountains that on the way down had been tipped with snow were now (six weeks later) lush and green. The improvement in driving is astonishing as people give you room and are not constantly pushing in in front of you.

Caceres is a fairly unremarkable town until you get into the city centre when you come upon the medieval/moorish old town. 

I thought I was back in Morocco!

The cobbled streets take you from one historic vista to the next!

On the way back I came across this statue that looked fine from the front:

But when you you see it from behind it has a very different 'feel' to it:

And following on the theme of silly names  for places to eat (you may remember the Restaurant 'Le Tit' in Al Jadida) check this out:

I did not want to go there in case I made an arse of myself. Boom boom!!

Off to Palencia tomorrow. I don't know anything about the place but let's explore because after that it's Santander and the ferry home!

Out of Africa

And back in Europe! I covered the 240 miles from Casablanca to Tanger Med Port in good time! This time the customs and police formalities were reasonably painless. In the queue for the boat I met Richard and Sally and their huge truck/camper with BMW GS on board and electric bicycles! It was a truly spectacular piece of kit!

They had been all the way down to The Gambia and we're heading back to England for an MOT and then an assignment in Newcastle. Forget Gambia that will be culture shock! They were the first people that I'd met in six weeks with a vehicle with UK number plates! Follow them on www.richardandsally.com

The 4pm ferry became the 6pm as we finally cast off for Algeciras. 

Spain was visible through the haze and gradually came into view as Morocco baca me a misty silhouette. It was a huge contrast from the reverse crossing I had made in mid March when the drizzle and chill made visibility poor. This time Gibraltar was on full view as we passed. 

I'm staying in the same hotel that John (my brother) and I stayed in before I caught the ferry and John headed back to the UK on his Triumph. 

Tomorrow I head for Cacares, around 270 miles away. I'm looking forward to seeing it's city centre as its a UNESCO World Heritage site!

Last night in Morocco

I said goodbye to Sue this morning as she jumped in a taxi for the airport. Having her here was great as we had a proper holiday! Having someone to talk to in your own language was great. I think she went home with bleeding ears. 

Before I could depart I had got to get my punctured front tyre fixed. I went to check on the bike yesterday evening and found the problem. Sue and I got the wheel off with the bike propped up on blocks so off I went in a taxi to get the puncture fixed, having first learned the necessary French words. I got in a taxi with the wheel and off we went to an area that has many bike repairers. In the first place the guy tried to patch the tube but it was too far gone so off went the taxi driver and myself in search of a new tube. After a couple of stores that did not have the correct inner tube I managed to get a heavy duty one and a local tyre fitter finished the job. Armed with the repaired wheel the taxi driver took me back to the hotel where I tipped him handsomely for his trouble.

The hotel where Sue and I stayed was very large but the staff were friendly. In the gardens lived a whole host of animals. There 2 tortoises, a family of cats, and many sparrows and blackbirds. 

At 12 noon, with the front wheel refitted,I set off for Casablanca 280 miles away. I first went through the mountains, then a desert, and finally arriving at a green and fertile plain! Such variety of landscapes here!

Tomorrow it's an early start as I'm off to Tangers to catch the ferry back to Europe! I'll be home in 7 days!

From Essouaria to Agadir

French Shabby chic Essouaria to 'In yer face' Agadir! Only 109 miles apart but the two towns are completely different. 

My last day I went to the fashionable beach bar and could not quite reconcile the extreme water sports with camel rides on the beach. Unless, of course, they are extreme camel rides! Perhaps you sit backwards or something!

Great ride down through the olive groves and along the sea. Agadir is like a regular Mediterranean resort with all that brings!

Sue's here! Arrived yesterday! 

Finally I can speak to someone in English! The hotel is comfortable and quite huge. There are plenty of activities but I could not persuade Sue to do the belly dancing lessons. 

Although we may bothe enter the knobbly knees competition tomorrow!

Lazy days

I'm having a few lazy days here in Essouaria before I ride back to Agadir and meet up with Sue. Currently I'm lying around the pool catching some rays.

It was more crowded that usual in the Medina yesterday and there was a sense of anticipation. It turned out that some holy man was being paraded through the narrow streets.

This caused great excitement but I did not find out anything about him.

Today I went out for breakfast and had a Nutella and banana crepe! Delicious. My appearance needed some attention so I went to the barbers for a beard trim. Check this out:

All neat and tidy!

Later I'm going to jump on the bike and head down the opposite end of the beach to a swanky beach bar that I went to the other day. I can hang out with the surfing fraternity!

Photogenic Essouaria

My last blog seams to have disappeared!

Today I explored the port, the fish market, and the old fort as they are in the same place. I'd had my usual breakfast of coffee, orange juice, and a crepe, at a cafe just outside the Medina. 

This is the third busiest fishing port in Morocco and was a hive of activity! 

I paid the 70pence entry fee to the old fort and walked along the ramparts. The fort along with most of the town was built by the French in the 18th century and it still has a Gallic feel.

From the walls you can look down into the fish market and see fishermen mending their nets.

You can also see an old castle, on a small island, that is gradually sinking into the sand and is believed to be the inspiration for Jimi Hendrix's 1968 song 'Castle made of Sand'! He visited Morocco for a few weeks in the 60's. 

From the fort you get a great view of the walled Medina:

I had then to go back to the hotel for a shower as I'd been shat on by Sea Gulls twice. I hear it's good luck so I'm off out to buy a lottery ticket! 

Snapped chain!

IYesterday I made the 120 mile journey from Agadir to Essouaria. Unfortunately it did not go without incident because 4 miles out of Agadir my chain snapped! Initially I did not think that this would be a problem as I was carrying spare links. However these turned out to be for a standard chain and I had purposely fitted a hard wearing X ring chain! 

I was on a busy dual carriageway and I needed to get back into Agadir to find a mechanic. I loaded all my stuff back on the bike, having removed the chain, and pushed it across this busy dual carriageway taking my life on my hands! I pushed the heavy bike for about half a mile getting seriously dehydrated when two lads on a moped stopped. I showed them my broken chain and they groaned. They asked me in French if I had considered a 'Honda'. This turned out to be what they call the small trucks that are all over Morocco. Within 2 minutes seconds they had flagged down a truck, negotiated a price for me with the very young driver, and loaded the bike on. They had given the driver the location of a mechanic and off we went for the 20 minute trip. Bearing in mind this was Sunday I wondered if it would be open but once we arrived and several guys helped unload it was clear he could help me. I paid the driver £5 for taking the bike ( the 2 guys had negotiated a price of £3!) and I left the bike at the mechanics to find water and rehydrate! 1.5litres later I was feeling better and headed off for Moroccan tea in a nearby cafe. I returned to the mechanic who had repairs my bike and I was ready to try again. Here's the Workshop!

Once again my faith in the kindness of people was reaffirmed.

So, bike restored, I set off again. The traffic was really bad for the first 29 miles as it was Sunday and people were off to the beach. The suddenly it disappeared and I was on another great road with the azure blue sea to my left and sand coloured mountains to my right.

The road twisted and turned eventually heading up and up!

The road headed inland going through huge olive groves where guys were selling 'Argan oil' by the side of the road. It is meant to have beautification powers! I nearly stopped to get some and apply to my arise which was a little sore by this stage!

After another few minutes I arrived in Essouaria and quickly found my swanky hotel! 

I went out to find something to eat in the old Messina. This is quite a fashionable place. There is a mixture of artists, surfers, and other Bohemians! Including fat blokes on 11 year old motorcycles! More exploring to do soon! 

Culture Shock!

Today I went from this:

To this:

In 4 hours! 

Along the best motorcycle roads I have ridden! Through a sublime backdrop of mountains and desert. I've ridden along straights that go on for 15 miles! At times I've been alone with not a person or vehicle in sight or even the sign of mankind apart from the road I'm riding! When I arrived here in Agadir it has put the trip into complete perspective! I've been to some extreme places and ridden some extreme roads. 

I've now covered over 2500 miles along roads that vary from two lane motorways to very rough tracks. But rather than my words I'll let the GoPro camera do the talking. Enjoy this:

https://youtu.be/KSizHCCCenM

Blockbusters

There are two film studios here in Ouarzazate where some very famous films have been made and I took the time to visit them both. Firstly I went to CLA Studios where Body of Lies and most recently Prince of Persia were made. Some of the sets are beginning to look a little worse for wear but I guess that is only to be expected as they are made of plastic resin, plaster, and polystyrene. Our enthusiastic guide gave us all the details. Some of Gladiator was made here also. It looks like the work was split between the 2 studios. Here is a selfie in front of the set for Gladiator. I think there is an uncanny likeness between Russell Crowe and myself though he may have a few pounds on me!

The guide told me that the stars of these Blockbusters don't hang around for long. Everything is made ready and they fly into Rabat, get a private jet to Ouarzazate airport, and arrive by helicopter. He told me that Brad Pitt filmed one scene from Seven Years in Tibet here and was in and out in 1 day!

They had made Cleopatra's Palace for a recent French film and I asked why there were slid marks in front. It transpires that BBC's Top Gear were there last week filming a sequence when cars were raced around the various outdoor sets!

The second studio, Atlas Corporation Studios, was more interesting. They had been formed in 1983 in order to film the Michael Douglas film 'The Jewel on the Nile' and had on from that to do 'Gladiator', 'The Kingdom of Heaven', and that family favourite 'The Hills Have Eyes'! Most recently they did a remake of 'Ben Hurr'.

Here is the slave galley from Ben Hurr:

And a gory prop from 'The Hills Have Eyes':

They also have a selection of props from 'Seven Years in Tibet'. I again I have a remarkable likeness to Brad Pitt (more like his brother Arm).

Anyone recognise this?

It held the Ark of the Covenant in Raiders of the Lost Ark!

The next part was a real treat. I took the track across several miles of desert to where they had built the castle for 'The Kingdom of Heaven'. It is astonishing in the authenticity and detail that went into it's creation. It is truly huge and impressive and is still surrounded by some of the siege equipment used in the film.

  

But when you look around the back you realise that it is plastic and held up with scaffolding!

It was great to get out on the trails to this fantastic destination.

I'm have the 5 hour trip to Agadir tomorrow where I will stay for a couple of days before moving on to Essouaria.